Named after the mystical lights of folklore, will-o-wisp is a night light which encourages sleep through visual and physical sensory elements. The warm flickering light, rounded form, and reflections throughout the tube encourages the user to wind down and ponder the object, whether in hand or on a nightstand. The form is inspired by the intimacy of gathering around a campfire with friends, watching the smoke carry the embers upward.
Research
At the research stage, I first looked at treatments for Seasonally Affected Depression. Instead of a sleep aid, this would promote wakefulness, to be used during the morning or times when natural sunlight is not available.
I then switched my approach to factors which aid sleep, such as reducing exposure to light (especially blue light), and aromatherapy. I also researched light-based sleep aids currently on the market.
Initial Prototypes
Influenced by Himalayan salt lamps, I incorporated a balance of cedar wood and acrylic with irregular, smooth faces to promote tactile interaction and olfactory stimulation. I also considered the incorporation of a hue-changing bulb for atmospheric lighting. Through vigorous prototyping, the exterior form gradually evolved into a modular form for ease of production/manufacture.
I researched satisfying elements of functionality, and contemplated a slide to turn on function, playing with the balance of form.
Refined Prototypes
As the product required the design to be manufacturable, I reassessed the product housing, lighting methods, and hierarchy of functions. Ultimately, I ruled out the sliding function, but preserved the slanted form to add movement.
After this form adjustment, I played around with material proportions and lighting options via prototyping in the final materials, settling on a 2:1 ratio of acrylic tube to poplar dowel, lit from a deconstructed tealight.
Lighting via incandescent bulb yielded a piercing rather than gently light.
Lighting via LEDs diffused with an orange paper shade resulted in a softer light, but akward docking point.
Lighting via altered tea light produced the best results, with a soft light and easy procurement. In the following models to the final, I sandblasted the central acrylic tube from the inside to better diffuse the light throughout the acrylic components.
Connections
After tweaking the lighting and proportions, I tested options for joinery between the dowels and the tubes. I used dowels of two different diameters: one matched the diameter of the outside of the acrylic tube, and the other could roughly slot into the tube. After sanding and slotting the smaller dowels into the bonded acrylic tubes, I cut the entire mass at an angle. With an similarly assembled dowel base cut at a matching angle, I bonded the two halves by gluing the wooden plugs to the base, and clamping until secure.
Final Assembly
For the base, cut and laminate the thicker dowels, creating the hollow centre by saran wrapping the centre dowel before gluing the exterior dowels.
After the glue has set, cut the mass at a 30 degree angle on the bandsaw.
For the acrylic top, sandblast the interior of central tube. Resin bond the tubes together. After cured, cut the mas at a 30 degree angle on the bandsaw.
To hide the tealight, create a cap by drilling the centre of a thicker dowel. Cut a 1/4" piece from the dowel.
Cut the diffusing bulb off the tea light, and glue the dowel cap to the top.
Cut the thinner dowels at a 30 degree angle. Sand and carefully mallet the dowels into the acrylic tubes, maintaining a straight incline.
Cut and sand the excess dowels from the acrylic mass.
Glue the dowels of the top and bottom together and clamp until secure.
Finish the exterior dowels with linseed oil.
